While the Gagnons, Mark and Michael H. went to Pont du Gard and Avignon, Kate, Michael and Alan visited Avignon and then Carpentras. On arriving in Avignon, Kate and the boys had a coffee and got the lay of the land. Then they started to wander and were overwhelmed by the crowds, much increased, no doubt, due to the 3-week fringe festival that was on at the time.
It was sensory overload with many different actors roaming the streets giving “sneak previews” of their theatrical offerings. The variety was huge!
After having a quick lunch, we reluctantly left Avignon, feeling that it was just a tease. We definitely need to go back and spend more time there. Sadly it’s not going to happen on THIS trip! We hit the road for Carpentras, and got there in time for a guided tour of what is purported to be the oldest European synagogue still in use.
We were immediately struck by the pride that the inhabitants of Carpentras take in their town. There were beautiful flowers everywhere and the streets were festooned with original canvases displaying the talents of many different artists.
We arrived at the tourism office just in time for free tastings of the local products - two different olive oils and three different honeys, including one made with lavender flowers. Yumm!
Unfortunately for Michael especially, the tour was in French, but he was able to piece things together after the tour when Alan explained what he gleaned from the guide, who was extremely knowledgeable.
In the late 14th and early 15th centuries, Jews in the area were allowed to live in only four communities. The lord of the land that included Carpentras agreed to let the Jews live there because a) that would increase his tax revenues and b) having Jews in servitude to you held a certain value as it seemed to continue their “punishment” for having “killed the Saviour”. The Jews were restricted to living on one street, with a gate at each end, restricting their movement. No windows were allowed to open onto “Christian neighbourhoods.” It was pretty bleak. As politics changed, Jews were banished from Carpentras and then several years later were admitted back, but on a different street, farther away from the town’s walls, surrounded by Christians who could “keep an eye on them.” Their choices of profession were restricted to “vendor of used clothing” or “moneylender.”
It’s amazing that the synagogue survived over the years. Over time, the community was able, to buy back the synagogue’s fixtures and furnishings.
Sadly, though not surprisingly, the community now consists of about 80 families. The children in these families tend to move away, so there may be no community left in another twenty years or less. It’s a beautiful house of prayer, with faux marble painting and baroque décor and well worth the visit.
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